Installed listed part. Tested okay.

No pressure sensor on this model. Unit was full of clean water at time of service after it had finished a cycle. Gave heat error previously. Flashing heavy and express. Diagnostics are very basic for this. Heater, thermistor, or PBA. Heater is working, so thermistor and heater are ruled out. We do not replace main controllers on Samsung, as there is almost certainly going to be a new problem afterwards. Our only recommendation for this model would be calling Samsung.

Ice maker running with very thick sheet of ice. Turned thickness thermostat down until it clicked, then harvested and refilled. Will need this thermostat, P# 2165478, which looks to be discontinued for the last 10+ years. Cannot find a replacement. Hopefully this keeps running on slightly less thick ice.

Removed blower assembly. Removed cooktop. Got grease filter unstuck and snapped filter switch back into position. Unit working normal now.

Replaced main control. Both ovens heating, but will need to bake multiple times to know for sure if the issue is resolved. At this point, there are no further parts I can recommend replacing for the oven selector error.

Whoever installed this machine should be liable for this repair in my opinion. They are lucky they did not cause more damage or burn the house down. Strain relief was never installed. Neutral is the only tight connection. The terminal block appears to have been broken in half during installation, and L1 and L2 are not even hand tight. One side has burned wiring. Would need new terminal block and 3 prong wire. Terminal block on this model is discontinued. It comes as the entire wiring harness, P# 6877EL1012A, which is discontinued, but this dryer is less than a year old. Would also need 3 prong dryer cord. There is also a universal terminal block we could install, P# 279320. With this block and wire from hardware store, we could rewire the machine.

Replaced main control. Dryer running and heating normal.

Compressor very hot due to condenser fan motor not running. Found some lint/insulation blocking the fan. Possible rodent nesting. Cleared, and the fan is running now. Allow 24hrs for temps to recover. If still not cooling properly, the compressor has failed and cannot be repaired. Cabinet opening is 36' wide by 69.5' tall.

Replaced ice maker. New unit cycled and filled. Allow 24hrs for normal ice production. Checked back for leaks.

Replaced lid lock assembly. Tested ok.

Swapped board, still 30V to lights. It is actually the light module that is burned out and causing the problems. I got fridge working, but now light module on left side of freezer wall needs to be replaced to bring freezer lights back on. Needs P# WR55X26671. Will be able to return main board. Ordrng 1 WR55X26671.

Removed old hair debris from front gasket. Gasket was not draining water at all. Flushed. Tested okay.

Needs door linkage kit, P# 11018656. Ordrng 1 11018656.

Installed listed part. Tested okay.

Upper switch was the problem today. Replaced. If this reoccurs, we would return with all 3 OEM switches. Used 1 ES16802 (SWITCH, MICRO) from stock.

Motor came in pieces. Reordered. Saved tckt.

Frozen freezer drain pan. Need to fully defrost and install heat probe P# 819043. Still no service kit available for this. Cannot guarantee this does not happen again. Ordrng 1 WRT112CZJZ01.

Bearings are failing. There are no parts available for this unit any longer. A bearing replacement would not be recommended.

Needs at least motor and belt. Ordrng 1 279787 (motor).

Installed updated drain ferrule.

Thermostat failed; Ordering 1 W10752646 (thermostat).

Unit had ice buildup on top assm. Owner defrosted it, and now display is sporadically flashing at startup before it dies. Going to need upper controllers P# WPW10739408, PCB P# WPW10624574, display P# W10846767, upper portion of FF thermistor P# W11661569, and evap insulation P# W11712700 before unit can be further tested. This model had chronic issues with defrost in the past. If defrost is still an issue after this repair and unit works normally during diagnostics, we would only refer to KitchenAid for assistance. Unit will be off and fully defrosted for us. Small chance the display board or foam could be sent back; Ordering 1 WPW10739408, 1 WPW10624574, 1 W10846767, 1 W11661569, and 1 W11712700.

Ice maker failure. Won't harvest or turn over at all. Needs P# 80-54372-00, which is discontinued. Sounds like U-Line has abandoned this model. No ice maker module is available for it, and no suppliers have it. The unit ices up inside, and it's normal, but it's a problem. I think that's why U-Line doesn't make anything for this anymore.

Wash plate P# AGZ72909711 cannot be removed without destroying. Need to pull tub and clean between. Even after wash plate, there is a hub nut that could have to be cut off as well. Hub nut P# 4020FA4208J. Possible this won't be necessary though. I tried filling with hot water and heavy agitate to rock the wash plate loose, but had zero effect other than sending giant black chunks into tub. I found in the service manual instructions explaining how to clean this machine. Cleaning the inside of your washer: If you use fabric softener or do regular cold water washing, it is very important that you clean the inside of your washer occasionally as described below. Fill your washer with hot water. Add 1 cup of bleach. Let it operate for several minutes. Stop the washer, open the lid, and leave it to soak overnight. After soaking, drain the washer and run it through a normal cycle. I would highly recommend attempting this cleaning procedure a few times before proceeding with destroying the wash plate and tub hub.

Manually defrosted. Installed listed parts. Tested okay.

Motor failure. Needs P# 279827 and blower P# WP69408. Ordering 1 1 and 1 1.

Outer door glass shattered. Ordering 1 7389523 (outer door).

Turned cube size thermo to max, 3 o'clock. Will need to allow 72 hours to see effects of this adjustment. If still not making ice, there are no other options for repairs on this.

Unit running as normal and heating as normal. After 30 mins, problems started occurring. Could very easily stop motor by hand. Now it won't start until motor cools down. Unit will need motor. P# DC31-00055G. We would install this for no additional labor. Ordering 1 DV42H5000EWA3.

Farther from kitchen dryer. Worn bearings. Installed maintenance kit. Cleaned out. Tested okay. This dryer had a lot more lint buildup inside and is the newer of the 2 dryers. Possible restricted vent. Recommend having it professionally inspected/cleaned. Used 1 4392067 (MAINT KIT) from stock.

Cleaned fine filter. Could not see through it at all. Need to try this before any parts. This will cause longer run times. Unit is finishing a cycle, but takes longer, so heater is likely working as normal.

Ran diagnostics, reset unit, but no change. Still 3/4 lights dim in fridge, the 4th is out completely. The one that is out is closest to door on wall. All are getting 30VDC. According to tech sheet for this model, it should be 2.5 or 3.5. None of these lights in fridge have anything but LEDs on a board, no drivers. Checked power at main, J16 connector to FF side is sending 30VDC, FZ side is getting 13VDC. There is technically a chance any one of the fridge lights caused this to happen to main board, but looks as though rectifier on main has failed. Unit would need main board before we can further test. Small chance it would need at least one light on top of this main board. Main is P# WR55X40445. FF light modules are P# WR55X26671. Ordering 1 WR55X40445 (MAIN).

Replaced melted pump and fill hoses, tested okay. Used 1 WP3363394 (DRAIN PUMP) and 1 TJ725RBFFP (FILL HOSE SET) from stock.

Clock failure, no voltage to igniter. Needs P# WB27X44726. Ordering 1 WB27X44726.

Cleared ice from freezer floor and cleared drain pan of rust debris. Use as normal.

Lid switch physically broken off. Ordering 1 205222 (LID LOCK).

Replaced fuse and temp sensor, tested okay. Used 1 WP8577274 (THERMISTOR) and 1 WP3392519 (THERMAL FUSE) from stock.

Adjusted door latches and door best I could. Spring latch was disconnected, but this door is cracked and hard to open and close. It will likely reoccur, even with a whole new door P# ADC73908103, which looks to be discontinued. Hinges are a little worn, which are not a repairable part. They are built into cabinet. Replacing the door might only be a very temporary solution with the damaged hinges. Cannot guarantee anything would change.

Replaced thermal fuse, tested okay. Vent is about as short as it can be, probably caused from door being opened before load is done naturally for a long time. Use as normal, but let it go through full cycle if possible. Used 1 WP3392519 (THERMAL FUSE) from stock.

Installed listed part, tested okay.

Unit will not full speed spin, just keeps trying to balance itself with an empty tub. Tub is slightly out of round and leaning to the right. Only way to properly repair this unit would be replacing suspension and inner and outer tub assembly. Washer is pretty unusable like this, not getting all of the water out of clothes before going into dryer, adding extra strain to dryer.

Repaired power in wiring at junction under unit, tested okay.

4 of 5 burners not working. All burner parts are integrated into 2 trays. 1 WB27X33085 IND TRAY and 1 WB27X33086 IND TRAY.

Replaced freezer fan. Ok now.

Installed listed part, tested okay. Disconnected temp sensor at board during install. This wire has less than a 1/4 play. If sensors ever need to be replaced, it has to be fully uninstalled. Reinstall is very difficult. Conduit in the way. Use as normal.

Installed listed part, tested okay. If any more problems after this, would need actuator. Possible its not shifting fully between modes. But working normally now. Used 1 W10721967 from stock.

Installed listed part, filled immediately. Use as normal. Allow 24 hours for normal ice production.

Cleared drain pan fresh food side and wiped up condensation. Should resolve the issue. Cleaned condenser. Also needs water filter. 7045454. Return Wednesday. 1 7045454.

Installed listed parts, tested okay.

Installed listed part, tested okay.

Bake and broil elem working, same with cooling fan. But temps off. Set to 350, only going to 275-285. Will need relay board P# 486792, which subs to P# 00702450 and temp sensor P# 414152. No OEM or new parts are available for this, only used parts, which wouldnt be worth the risk.

Drain pump just humming. Removed pump. Found nothing inside. After reassembling, washer is draining now. Could keep working or stop again at any time. W10536347 drain pump asm.

Unable to remove tub to clean, welded to drum. Pulled agitator, and owner cleaned. Can only recommend using cleaners for this periodically to fight the smell. Created new UIS, deleted prior attachment to UisID 24414.

Replaced temp sensor as a test. Dryer heating. Hopefully dry times are a little better now but if not, there are no other parts I can recommend replacing.

Replaced motor and blower. Tested ok.

Grease fire in oven. Main control board visibly burnt. Recommend replacing temp sensor as well. No way to verify ahead of time but could also need one or both ignitors and will probably smoke like crazy once it starts heating again. 1 WB27X34889 main control and 1 WB24X25557 sensor asm.

Installed listed part, tested okay.

Power went out for an hour, but unit never came back on for 5 days, so everything was lost. They reset it, now ice made two batches and stopped. But theyre concerned about power going out and not coming back on in the future. There is no known issue for this, and we wouldnt be able to gaurentee any repair. The best option is probably buying a sensor and having it set to phone for alerts if temps get high, or power is lost to unit. We could attempt replacing main aurora P# W10843055, but no gaurentee of any kind. For the ice maker, pulled error codes, none found or stored. It was empty at time of service, and fill tube was frozen. Ran test 19 to thaw fill tube, then ran 3 fill tests to over flow ice maker. Its now working, and theres no known repair for this either. They suggest replacing tubes and related parts, but nothing gets insulated, so the same problem just reoccurs eventually. Calling Kitchenaid for assistance may be the next step if ice maker stops again. Going to research the power issue, but it looks as though the confirm button has to be pressed after every power outage. Created new UIS, deleted prior attachment to UisID 25672.

Drive motor failure. This has a 10 yr warranty, would have to contact Whirlpool for assistance with the warranty. Otherwise, unit needs P# 279827. States that autho needed.

Replaced L side hinge pin and receiver. Ok now.

Dripping past drain trough. Recommend installing updated drain ferrule. A04520001 (FERRULE).

Left side hinge visibly bent. Hinge kit required. Cannot bend existing hinge as it mounts into plastic. There could be additional damage that is not obvious, and there would still be a chance of leaking even with new hinges if the inner door and/or frame of the dishwasher is warped or bent. Those parts cannot be replaced.

Installed listed parts. Tested oven to 250, 300, 350, and 400. Everything working normally now except rear center burner. Spark is lost at simmer module. Will need P# 00619016. Placed backorder for the module. Will call when it arrives. 00619016 (SIMMER MOD).

Evacuated remaining refrigerant in drawer system. Vacuumed system. Recharged drawer section refrigerant with factory weight R134a.

Needs freezer track, right side. P# 7042772. Door not closing, causing ice buildup to hit the fan and make the door closing worse. Got the door closing for now. Also needs basket retainer kit closest to the door. Both are broken and hold the basket square. P# 7009399. Will steam all ice out of the freezer on return visit. 7009399 (RETAINERS). 7042772 (TRACK KIT).

Cam stripped away. Needs cam kit. P# W10721967.

Reinstalled disposal. Nothing was broken, just came undone. Leak checked. Use as normal.

Cables, springs, and mounts are all fine. The plastic linkage broke on the right side. Will replace both. WD14X10009 (LINK).

Washer tested OK. No stored errors. Use as normal.

Washer either will not lock and gives an EL lid lock error or will not unlock and gives an E4 lid lock error. Sometimes it works normally. Lid lock works perfectly in diagnostic mode. Would either need the lid lock, the main control, or both. Would have to try replacing those parts to see if one or both fixes the issue. W11371714 (LOCK ASSM). W11189137 (CNTRL-ELEC).

Looks like something might have spilled on the center burner. Working now. If any more trouble, recommend replacing the ignitor and module.

Replaced bake ignitor. Tested OK to 350. Used 1 5303935066 (IGNITOR, OVEN) from stock.

Replaced freezer drawer rails. Installed drain update kit. Cleared all ice and flushed drain. May drip a tiny bit more, then should completely stop.

No lights working properly. Service pointer out for this unit. LEDs have been redesigned. Kit available that replaces all LEDs with new style. Part W11683242. This might be covered by JennAir, but only through factory service. Tried reaching customer Tuesday around 5 PM but had to leave voicemail. Ordrng 1 W11683242 (LED KIT).

Underwear caught in belt. Threw belt and ripped motor sensor off. Unable to reinstall. Will need new sensor P# WH12X27187 and everything else will be reassembled. Ordrng 1 WH12X27187.

Draining now. If it happens again, can check air gap. Possible more debris in drain system that cannot be reached easily.

Tried removing magnetron from circuit. Still tripped fuse. Replaced HV transformer. Not tripping fuse after replacement but very loud and not heating. Replaced magnetron. Unit running and heating normally now.

Replaced water proof system on window side dishwasher. Configured for model. Tested OK multiple times.

Started a normal cycle. It got through the first rinse and then beeped like it was complete. Extra Dry was set, and heater never came on. Dispenser never opened. Per diagnostics, unit will need heat pump and possibly PCB. Would attempt heat pump first. P# 12008381. PCB P# 12008382 is NLA now. May be able to find one at a different source, but only seeing used options available. Would install heat pump, but would not attempt PCB.

Condenser fan blade fell off. Motor shaft was rubbing against blade and squeaking. Reinstalled with Loctite. If this reoccurs, will have to return with blade and fan motor. Use as normal.

Bake element failure. Needs P# W10779716. Ordrng 1 W10779716.

Installed listed part. Had to get it out of Sabbath mode and set clock. Use as normal.

Controller was the issue. Unit has been defrosting normally. Installed thermistor. Use as normal.

Worn bearings. Replaced all wearing parts with maintenance kit. Vacuumed out dryer. Tested OK. Used 1 4392067 (MAINT KIT) from stock.

Shortened vent tubing. Great air flow. Recommend trying a few cycles on normal and timed. Dry times should be 50-70 minutes for most fabrics. If the auto cycles are stopping way too soon, could try replacing the temp sensor. Cutomer to use as normal and report back.

Dryer heating. Good airflow at vent hood. Cannot make dryer hotter. Recomend using timed or 'regular' auto cycle as oppsoed to perminent press. Dryer should take 45-70 minutes for most loads on regular heat.

Motor relay on main PCB stuck on. Left dryer uplugged; ordrng 1 CSP30105902 (MAIN PCB)

Motor winding burnt; ordrng 1 DC93-00101U (MOTOR ASM)

Replaced freezer drawer rails. Drawer closes much better now.

This is a Samsung-built fridge. Ice makers for this generation of Samsungs are under class action lawsuit and cannot be repaired. Unit will not even cycle on test. Fridge temperatures okay although starting to get typical for this model frost buildup in the air ducts. Freezer at around 20-25 degrees and running nonstop. About 1/8 frost pattern on the freezer evaporator coils, so either refrigerant issue or compressor issue. Recommend contacting GE for support. Possible unit has a 3, 5, or even 10-year warranty on the sealed system, but that could only be handled by GE factory service.

Replaced listed parts except did not need ice maker. Checked unit after a couple days. Temps perfect. Want to speak with customer and see how it is doing. Left message Friday afternoon.

Turned by hand and motor is starting now. Recommend motor replacement. 50/50 chance the blower wheel will break when replacing the motor. P# 809096302 motor. P# 137551110 blower housing.

Rear mounted hidden bake element. Will need to return with this part. Everything working except bake not getting past 120 degrees in bottom. Broil and convection work. Likely needs P# 00791650.

Installed inlet valve. Did not need hoses. Current hoses are brand new. Created new UIS. Deleted prior attachment to UISID 25616.

Installed listed parts. Tested okay. Used 2 DE10755 drum roller sets from stock.

Installed listed part. Tested all burners. Use as normal.

Drain pump failure. Impeller stops by finger. Needs P# 4681EA2001T.

Defrosted manually. Installed board. Return Tuesday for thermistor.

Freezer fan failing. P# 482731. Motor, evap. fan.

Replaced ice maker. New unit cycled and filled. Allow 24 hours for normal ice production after turning ice maker on. Left off as house is vacant and unable to reach owner while at property. Always recommend leaving ice makers off when not in use. Flip metal bar on side of ice maker down when next at house.