Good frost pattern on both fridge and freezer. Mechanical thermometers may be giving a bad reading. Fresh food was 32-34 degrees at time of service when set to 34. Freezer was reading -18 but was only 0. Found it in Celsius, which is actually 0 degrees F. Turned ice maker on and it filled. Allow 24 hours for normal ice production. Units should be ready to use.

Double Monogram. Fridge side dead, zero power to unit. Unable to test outlet behind unit, but the problem is likely with one of the outlets in the kitchen; they’re all temporarily missing. Did find breaker for freezer, but had no effect on fresh food side. Once outlets are installed, guessing power will come back to the fridge, but would require an electrician to diagnose further.

Cooling fan working as normal. Diagnostics guide for this model only use surround and convection bake for testing the unit. On convection bake, the test is to turn it to 320, and wait 30 mins and check the temp. It should be 320. Then for surround bake, they want the oven completely cooled, and then test it to 375. Tech sheet states this should take 40 minutes. These times seem a bit long to me, but it's so the entire cavity is an even temperature before you insert food. On surround bake, the unit did preheat to 350 in under 17 minutes, and this was with me opening the door several times to check if hidden bake element was heating. Hidden bake element is heating. When testing just the bake cycle, this takes the longest to heat. Unit wasn't cycling the broil element, but this may be due to it being hot already after testing broil functions. All elements are heating as they should per diagnostics though. I can only recommend using 'surround' or 'convection settings. This will heat faster, and more evenly. Temp readings are also very accurate.

"Removed piece of metal from drain, tested okay. This is the orginal cause for the door lock failure. The unit remained locked, so the door was forced open and broke the lock."

"Installed lock, tested okay."